The Better Skin Guide

Before adding any "active" ingredients, you need a solid foundation. This prevents irritation later and ensures your skin barrier is healthy. **Your starter routine:** • Morning: Rinse with water or gentle cleanser → Moisturizer → Sunscreen (SPF 30+) • Evening: Gentle cleanser → Moisturizer That's it. Three products. Do this consistently for 2-4 weeks before adding anything else. The goal is making sunscreen a non-negotiable daily habit—this single step prevents 80% of visible skin aging. **Why sunscreen matters most:** UV radiation breaks down collagen, damages elastin, causes dark spots, and accelerates every aspect of skin aging. Studies of identical twins show that sun exposure alone can make one twin look a decade older. **When to move to Phase 2:** You're ready when sunscreen feels automatic and your skin isn't irritated or dry. If you're already doing this consistently, move on.

Once your foundation is solid, add ONE active ingredient. For anti-aging, that means a retinoid—the only topical with 50+ years of evidence for actually reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture. **Choosing your retinoid:** • Tretinoin (Rx): Most effective, more irritating initially. Start at 0.025%. • Adapalene (Differin): OTC, good for acne-prone skin, gentler. • Retinol (OTC): Weaker but still effective. Good if you can't get a prescription. **How to start (this is crucial):** Week 1-2: Use 1-2 nights per week only Week 3-4: Use every other night if tolerated Month 2+: Gradually increase to nightly if skin tolerates it Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin. "Buffering" (applying over moisturizer) reduces irritation while you build tolerance. Expect some dryness and peeling initially—this is normal and subsides. **When to move to Phase 3:** You're using retinoid 3-4+ nights per week without major irritation. You've been consistent for 3+ months. You want to optimize further.

Once you're tolerating a retinoid well, you can add other evidence-based ingredients. Don't add everything at once—introduce one new product every 2-4 weeks so you can identify what works. **Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) — Morning** Antioxidant that helps prevent UV damage and supports collagen. Apply before sunscreen. Look for 10-20% concentration, pH below 3.5. Many products are unstable—if it's brown/orange, it's oxidized. **Niacinamide — Morning or Evening** Strengthens barrier, reduces redness, helps with pigmentation. 2-5% is enough. Well-tolerated by most. Can layer with other products. **Azelaic Acid — Morning or Evening** Excellent for pigmentation, redness, or acne. 10% OTC or 15-20% prescription. Very gentle. **AHAs (Glycolic/Lactic Acid) — Evening, NOT with retinoid** For dullness and texture. Use 1-2x per week on nights you skip retinoid. Don't overdo it. **What about peptides and hyaluronic acid?** Hyaluronic acid is fine but only provides temporary plumping. Most peptide serums (Matrixyl, Argireline) have weak evidence compared to retinoids. They're not harmful but shouldn't be prioritized over the above.

When your at-home routine is dialed in and you want more, professional treatments can help. These are adjuncts, not replacements for daily skincare. **Established treatments:** • Microneedling: Creates controlled micro-injuries that stimulate collagen. Every 4-6 weeks. Moderate evidence. • Chemical peels: Deeper exfoliation than at-home products. Monthly for maintenance. • Botox: Relaxes muscles causing dynamic wrinkles. Very well-established. Every 3-4 months. • Fillers: Restore volume loss. Hyaluronic acid fillers are reversible. Results last 6-18 months. • Laser treatments: Various types for different concerns. More downtime, more dramatic results. **Emerging (earlier evidence):** • GHK-Cu peptide: Topically or post-microneedling. More evidence than most peptides. • Red light therapy: Some evidence for collagen stimulation with consistent daily use. • Exosomes: Very early research. Not yet proven. **Home devices:** • LED masks/panels (red + near-infrared): Low risk, some evidence. Requires consistency. • At-home microneedling (0.25-0.5mm): For product penetration only—don't go deeper. The key at this phase is finding a reputable provider and maintaining realistic expectations. No treatment replaces the daily basics.